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The current landform series that I am working on is
based on interpreting the interlocking and overlapping
of colors and textures that we see in our landscape.
The pots come in a range of sizes.
I first prepare a number of slabs with a slab roller. I use
paper clay, which is produce by our own clay company.
There is 5% of paper added to a white low fired
stoneware body, which is fired to 1200℃. I use paper
clay because it has properties of good adhesiveness at
joining and its flexibility allows me to manipulate
and join the pieces at will.
Once I have a number of slabs made I leave them to dry to
soft leather hard. When they are ready I color each
Slab to suit the colors and textures I need for the
landforms. I may prepare one with an overall wash
base. I will prepare a black slab and the others such
as a wavy blue to represent water images, a randomly
texture green for forest and so on. Sometimes I use
clay decorated with sponge patterns. I then leave
these for the colors to dry .
To give the piece a sense of suspension or lift I cut a slab
of colored clay into an oval for a base and then place
this in concave mould.
Now I cut portions of colored slab eg a blue portion or a
green grassy trip and join it to the base with a
little water. Gradually I build up the picture adding
sections to the base and each other. Sometimes I leave
holes in the wall. The cut sections depict the
interaction of plains, roads, valleys, lines of trees,
shadows and the perspective of the landscape. When I
join two sections together I press them firmly and
then later when the wetness has gone from the
join I paddle the two surfaces together without
smuggling the colors. I want to maintain the sharp
boundary between the colors, but for it to be a smooth
join to the touch. I run a small bead of clay on the
inside of the pot behind the join to assist with the
union
I usually insert areas of uncolored clay that can be
decorated or textured later using techniques of
masking, fine lining or texturing. I find this helps
to emphasis a perspective point.
On the rim I add a small sausage of clay, which helps join
all the slab sections. I use this rim to give the
effect of some feature of the landscape such as a rock
quarry, trees of sheep on a ridgeline.
I then add final details to the work, sometimes using a
pattern wheel to make dotted lines that add definition
to areas. These are like fences and boundaries marking
changes of use ,crop ,ownership etc. Now I press some
clay from the base onto the wall of pt with a spatula
to firm the construction and to give a sense of
stability and grounding to the piece . The inside of
the work is then painted with black stain being
careful to leave the rim white.
The work is bisque fire to 920℃ and then glaze fired to 1200℃
in an electric kiln. |